This is such a quick & easy project! This cute little gingerbread is so yummy, someone has already taken a bite!

This pattern & tutorial assume some basic sewing skills. Embroidery is optional, there are lots of great tutorials on YouTube and via Google if you want to look up the embroidery stitches I mention. Buttons, sequins, beads, etc. can be used for eyes in place of embroidery if desired.

I used felt fabric but fleece would also work great. If you decide to try out woven fabrics (fabrics that are woven will fray), I would sew the little guy up inside out using as narrow a seam allowance as possible (or trace the pattern pieces with an additional 1/4″ around them),  leaving a space for turning and then whip stitch closed the opening. Also remember that your pieces need to be cut out so that you will have the right side of the fabric facing out once cut.

Click here for the pattern pieces. I’ve included a girl gingerbread as well. Hoping to make one today but I wanted to get the pattern up now since we’re so close to Christmas!

Basic Instructions:

• Cut 2 body pieces
• On one body piece, embroider eyes & mouth. (I used a padded satin stitch for the eyes & the outline stitch for the mouth) or use sequins, beads, felt pieces, or buttons.
• Embroider or use buttons, beads, sequins, felt pieces, etc. “buttons” on his tummy.
• Sew the two pieces together right sides facing out & stuffing lightly as you go.
  I used a blanket stitch for the body except for the bitten leg – I used a simple running stitch for that portion to accentuate the “bite”.  Back stitch, running stitch, whip stitch, etc will work fine.
• Add a loop of embroidery floss or ribbon for hanging on the tree.

Sweet & simple! Find more detailed patterns in my Etsy shop, Amber Perry Patterns or find my knitting & crochet patterns on Ravelry.

These adorable little balloon buddies add fun to any party! Three balloon bodies are offered along with two face options. Instructions are given for knitting in the round as well as flat knitting. The yellow & purple balloons are approximately 5” tall; the red is approximately 4” tall.

Enjoy this free amigurumi knitting pattern here (PDF download) or save it to your library on Ravelry.

My little crawler/cruiser needed some shorties for the spring (I have faith it will come one day). The colorway is perfect for a little one who will be getting dirty as she explores her world. I also wanted to see how a lace edging would work out on her shorties. The lace would be easier to see if it were done in a solid color. I’m still happy with the results. It’s one of those little touches that brings delight to my heart, even if others (non-knitters perhaps) don’t appreciate it. I love to see what I’ve made on my little ones.

The edging is very easy to work and is suitable for just about any project you want to put it on. The only things to keep in mind are that the edging is worked directly onto the project, not knit separately and then sewn on. This means that you must make sure that your number of stitches is divisible by 9. The edging takes  10 rounds to complete, plus the bind off.

The chart shows only right side rows/rounds. To work in the round, knit all even numbered rounds, to work flat, purl all even numbered rows. Row 10 is not shown, but you still need to work it!

Bind of as follows: p2, slip  both sts back onto left needle, p2tog, *p1, slip both sts back to left needle, p2tog*.

I hope you enjoy this simple edging. It gives a nice diamond pattern.

This is an easy to memorize crochet stitch pattern that gives a pretty dishcloth/washcloth.

Measurements: 8 1.2″ x 6 3/4″

Yarn: worsted weight cotton

Hook: H

Gauge: Not really important, my gauge was 2 st repeats per inch

Instructions

Loosely chain 32 (I like to use an I hook  for the foundation chain to ensure the cloth lays flat)

Row 1: (hdc, ch1, hdc) in 4th ch from hook *skip next ch, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in next ch*, repeat to last 2  ch, skip 1 ch, hdc into last ch, turn.

Row 2: ch2, *skip 2sts, (hdc, ch1, hdc) in next ch sp*, repeat to last hdc, skip 1 st, hdc into tch, turn.

Repeat row 2 until cloth measures  6 3/4″ or desired height.

Abbreviations
ch – chain
ch sp – chain space
hdc – half double crochet
st/sts – stitch/stitches
tch – turning chain

I have revised and reworked my Dishcloth #2 pattern. I must not have been feeling very creative the day I named it!

I hope you enjoy this new version. The crochet edging is optional. In my picture at left, the tan cloth has the edging and the white with pink cloth does not.

Skill Level: Beginner
Needles: US 7
Yarn: Peaches & Cream or Sugar n’Cream worsted weight cotton in two colors
Gauge: Not really important for this pattern. My gauge: 6 sts = 1” in pattern
Abbreviations:
wyif – with yarn in front
wyib – with yarn in back

Color A is the background color.

With A CO 38 stitches

Purl 1 row

Rows 1 & 2: With B knit

Row 3: With A, k6, *sl2 wyib, k6; repeat from *

Row 4: With A, p6, * sl2 wyif, p6; repeat from *

Row 5: With B, k6, *sl2 wyib, k6; repeat from *

Row 6: With B, knit

Row 7 : With A knit

Row 8: With A purl

Row 9 & 10: With B, knit

Row 11: With A, k2, * sl2 wyib, k6; repeat from *, ending with sl2 wyib, k2

Row 12: With A, p2, sl2 wyif, *sl 2 wyif, p6; repeat from *, ending with sl2 wyif, p2

Row 13: With B, k2, * sl2 wyib, k6; repeat from *, ending with sl2 wyib, k2

Row 14: With B, knit

Row 15: With A knit

Row 16: With A, purl

Repeat rows 1-16 again, then repeat rows 1-8 once more.

Bind off & weave in ends.

For optional crochet edging, single crochet around the entire cloth, working 3 sc at each corner, with color of choice.

When I was pregnant with my fifth child I thought I would try out a wool sleep sack. I had not known about them until then (shocking I know). The result was the beautiful sleep sack you see in the picture.

I have posted the pattern as a free pattern on the Butt Knits website. The pattern includes options for the ruffled edging with drawstring or a ribbed edging. The lower drawstring is optional for both. The pattern is equally suited for boys or girls. I hope you enjoy the pattern!

I have been asked a few times where I bought the yarn I used. It is merino worsted weight yarn from Lazy Perry Ranch by Epicurious. The yarn is so gorgeous that I frogged the sleep sack when my daughter outgrew it so that I can use it again! I am thinking about using it to make her some Biker Babe shorties (here on Ravelry) this summer.

My daughter has been rapidly outgrowing her warm winter pajamas. She’s left with her sleeveless summer nightgowns. Which just won’t do in winter. As much as I’d like to sew up some new pajamas or flannel gowns for her, my time is pretty tight right now.

The answer came from knitting inspiration. I had been knitting a shrug for her to wear (I thought) with her short sleeve dresses to church on Sundays. As I reached the half way point of her knit shrug, she informed me that she did not like white and did not want it. Well! Though I’ll probably finish it and add some embroidery to add color, it took the wind out of my sails for that projects. Her arms still needed something warm though. So I whipped up this cute little shrug in about 15 minutes. Maybe only 10. It’s pretty darn quick!

Tutorial

Important Notes: I used polar fleece because of its stretch and because it does not fray. My daughter is quite slender and has a small frame. I tried a shrug for the baby using the same measurements and it was too tight for her super chubby arms. I am going to make her another one but taper the sleeves to be wider. I’ll let you know how that goes.

I measured from her wrist to the middle of her back, which is 18″. Multiply that x 2 = 36″. I then measured from the nape of her neck to just below her shoulder blades, 8″. I then cut a rectangle of fleece 36″ x 8″.  The stretch of the fleece must be going vertically.

Mark with pins how far the seam from wrist to armpit will go. I found it most comfortable for my daughter to stop the seam about 2″ from her actual armpit.

I used a serger to sew the seam but a standard machine will work just as well.

Turn the shrug right side out.

This is the third shrug I’ve made for her this way. If you have enough fabric it’s nice to add an inch or two on the sleeves to make the shrug last longer. It would also be super cute to add some embroidery or appliques. And of course fleece comes in lots of cute patterns and even pre-embroidered. Lots of fun! My daughter loves her warm sleeves and wears them during the day with short sleeved or sleeveless shirts as well.

If you make the shrug for another size/fit and want to share the measurements you used that would be great! Just leave the info. in the Comments.

Update: Throughout the day today I’ve had lots of nice comments on various forums. Lots of moms think this would work great for them too!  One of the more interesting comments came from a friend who has a small dog. She suggested this tutorial could be used to make a shrug for a dog as well. I think she’s right! Though I don’t have a dog, I think if you measure from one “ankle”, up over the shoulders and down the other leg and then measure from the nape of the neck down the back to just below the shoulders. If anyone makes a shrug using this tutorial; I’d love to see a pic! I’ll post it here to show it works.

*This post taken from my old blog. Original writing April 2009.

I have long loved this stitch pattern and thought it would make a cute dishcloth. The larger cloth, measuring 10″ x 7″, I use for a dishcloth. The smaller cloth, measuring 9″ x 6.5″, I added a shell edging to and will use as a washcloth for our new baby. Either way it’s a quick and fun knit. The optional edging is crocheted on.

One important note; this pattern must be knit with either long double point needles or a circular needle as you slide the stitches to one end or the other depending on which color is needed.

I knit this up myself and have not had it test knit. Please let me know right away if you think you have found an error.

PDF Pattern Link

*This post is taken from my old blog. Original writing, May 2009.

I much prefer the feel of 100% cotton flannel nursing pads to store bought pads. They’re softer and of course – washable! (Tip: washing them in a lingerie bag will keep them all together.)
I made myself a few additional nursing pads recently to bolster my stash. I chose to keep one side neutral (plain white or ivory) and the other side patterned. This way I have some cute prints, but they won’t show through my clothes.
I use 100% cotton flannel. Be sure to pre-wash and dry the fabric on hot before you begin. I then lay out my fabric two or three layers thick and use a Pyrex bowl as my template. You can make the circles any size you like (another perk to making your own), I just happen to like the size of my little Pyrex storage bowl. A large mouthed glass or other round item will work just as well. You can use water soluble fabric pens/pencils/markers, or just grab whatever is at hand – which in my case was a ball point pen. I would NOT use regular markers or gel pens – nothing that is going to bleed into the fabric.
I then cut out my circles with a rotary cutter. I like my nursing pads to be 3 -4 layers of flannel. This is a personal preference and you might like (or need) more or less. I would probably not make them thicker than maybe 5-ish layers unless you are using very thin flannel. You want them to be thin enough to wash and dry well.
Once they are cut out I use my serger and serge around the edges. If you don’t have a serger you can either zig zag or overlock them with your standard machine, or add 1/4″ to the diameter when cutting (ie: get a bigger bowl) and then sew them inside out with a 1/4″ seam allowance, leaving an opening to turn them (like that pillow you made in the 6th grade).